I was buying farine (fried jungle carbs made from yucca) and sugar in the community shop and, because I had relaxed, I mentioned how nice it was to enter such a friendly community. The lady had, like many Shipebo women, a harsh fringe with jet black long hair and a short, shapeless, traditional blouse. She replied that the people’s reaction when they had heard the message had been “Kill the Pela Cara!” but that they had later agreed to let me pass when they found out my purpose and that I had permits.
I asked the woman to explain “Pela Cara” for me and she explained how there has been human organ trafficking in the area and bodies found without organs.
“The culprits are Americans – Gringos like you. The people were scared to hear of your arrival.”
I didn’t really know what to make of this – there are many people here that want to tell me long stories. What happened next made things very clear.
As we left the linear village the path linked a row of more separated houses – all occupied by Shipebo families. As we entered the patch of one such family I did my usual broad smile and waving (to show I’m a non-threatening nice chap) but the owner of the house did not respond – he looked transfixed.
The man then asked Alfonso ... Read even more
